In my latest post we had a look at the relation between couture and deconstruction. During the past decades we could watch kind of a competition. Long existing designers and houses seemed to just adopt the deconstruction-vibe, eliminating too much of their own philosophy and what they were traditionally known for. What’s so interesting with those two “fashion-poles”, couture and deconstruction, is, that they start to slowly trickle into another aside from eliminating each other. A nice starting point in getting things right.
A nice example for the mix of the deconstruction (the “new” functionality) vs. couture (maintaining it’s own vibe) is the Alexander McQueen Show SS 2018 by Sarah Burton. She managed to combine opulence, the label stands for, with the cut of deconstructing functionality.
But: Sure, we want new trends, because this is what fashion is all about. But the collections sometimes loose their originality, the vibe which the brand once stood for. It’s replaced by new trends, which sometimes get completely soaked up into the brand.
One of the reasons for the unappropriate use of new trends in relation to a labels tradition might be the increasingly short time, new creative directors are hired at a label, once the designer aka co-founder died. Especially in memorial houses, this seems to have a high impact on the designs and collections. But you can’t blame them for it, honestly. It appears to be nearly impossible for a new creative director to incorporate into the brands essence of style in such a short time. Especially when there have to be fifty looks per five collections a year, this sounds as impossible as it is. The quality in design strictly suffers sometimes. But never the less there are designers joining a brand, doing a great job for the renowned house. A circumstance which we, the observers, can highly appreciate. I’s always the story behind fashion which discloses us the design. The story tells us, why cuts are shaped, silhouettes are modified and colors are chosen, as they are. “Foreign” designers, nowadays, have to look deeper into the house’s philosophy to incorporate it’s quality in design in the right manner. The right dose of merging new and old, is the key to success.